Speed Integral, Voralpsee
Still a project. Why..?
To all of you who know Voralp, yes you are right, this photo was not taken in Speed!
Which does not matter. Because it's about the story behind Speed and not about the great pictures taken during a climbing photo shooting with Skinfit in the routes Lucy (7c +) and Euphorie (8b / +).
The climbing area Voralp got in the last years more and more international attention. Especially because of its special stone structure, this climbing garden is unique. This climbing garden has always fascinated me ... the first time I visited Voralp with the Vorarlberg national team, the following year with Leonie, Babsi and Jacopo. That year I was able to climb routes such as Grenzgänger (8a) and Euphorie (8b / +). Now for the year that could be entered in my CV as Voralpsee year: 2019. I succeeded - from the standard "warm-up route" to the second hardest route on the wall - to climb all. I repeated Euphorie in lead and trained my endurance with interval climbing in this route. Shortly before Michi Wohleben climbed Speed Integral, I tried Speed in Toprope. I spent a lot of time with Michi at Voralp this year.
Let's get to Speed: At first I was much too weak to climb the difficult parts. So I was proud of every single move between the crux sequences that I have done. On the fourth day in toprope I was able to do all the moves, in the upper part hanging draws and moves together and climb the hardest move from the last rest point. What a pleasure! Super psyched for the first lead try i tried the route in the lead, it went unexpected well, I could climb over the first crux and flew at the next crux sequence. The next "countless" innumerable attempts went the same way then my first try - to the second crux. It was time for a bit more strength and better conditions, because it was often too warm because I tried the route in the middle of summer. Often I could only make an attempt at 7 pm. This was also the reason why we (Leonie and I) in July and August no longer drove to the climbing gym in the evening , but to the Voralp - often until midnight we climbed with headlamps. Also during the week. The Highpoint in the first month, climbed with my headlamp until the last hard move about in the middle of the route. The thought that I could not climb the route if I hold this move did not exist. How wrong! After I flew over 10 times on this last hard move, I was finally able to hold it, climbed on and crushed into the rope while falling at the last draw in speed. Wow! I was really amazed, super happy but at the same time very disappointed, because my idea to be able to climb the upper part stable just flew away. The next few attempts only brought me back to the last hard move, which was the reason for losing my motivation a bit, also at the same time I made me more and more pressure, because I just wanted to climb the route. I managed to climb three more times to the last draw or over it. Moments I never forget, because on my last try in Speed I flew three holds before the big rest just before the short extension , which I had very well bouldered. After this failure, I knew the route just does not want me to climb it. Emotionally that was hard, but I think I learned a lot, even if I could not climbed Speed yet.
What I finally missed was the fun on the route, the fun of trying and probably the fun of climbing in general. And as many know: fun and joy can make one so much stronger! Thanks to all who supported me in this project, thank you to all who believed in me and still believe in me. It was not an easy year for me, many changes, many unfinished projects, some injuries and a - unfortunately necessary - thumb operation. I'm glad to be back on the way I want to go. Everything has a reason and everything takes time! Looking forward to 2020, then to continue on these projects and on new ones.
Atlantik, 8c, Voralp
After "Speed", "Atlantik" is the second hardest route at Voralp. Pretty amazing endurance climbing with a cool crux move. (Picture=> Fotos/Photos) This route combines powerful moves technical sequences and endurance to one of the coolest lines I've ever climbed!
I'm so proud for this send! Super Happy!
Fotocredit: Skinfit, Jacopo Larcher, Paolo Sartori, Zeemon